This Dragon kit no 6141 will be a series of 250 halftracks to be featured.
Continued from the kit review section where we left off, describing the areas requiring care during construction, this part will elaborate on the other parts of the process, mainly the painting and weathering.
The overall kit painting started with the compartment of the lower hull when the wheels were not fixed on yet. This was an obvious step as once the top plate was fixed, the driver compartment will be very difficult to paint later. A coat of Tamiya semi gloss black is my usual primer to bring out the shadows in a preshading scheme. This was followed up by 2 different shades on Tamiya dark yellow, one coat being slightly lighter with the addition of Tamiya white. This was applied to push the contrast in panels facing upwards giving a hint of the harsh effects of the sun on paint work.
Detailed touch up is required on the dashboard area and reference picture is needed as the instruction sheet do not point this out to you though the parts are well represented. Most instrument panels are in black except the rpm meter in white with a red band. The leather seats are painted with Vallejo flat brown with some tonal works in dilluted black and some khaki. Some pipework were inserted using photos as reference from the transmission to the firewall.
The radio sets were painted in different shades on Vallejo black, Tamiya gun metal, graphites and gloss and matt coats with dry brushing to accentuate the busy parts. Some pipe work and wiring were added.
The overall kit was then primed, preshaded and the camouflage was airbrushed in Tamiya dark green and flat brown. A few layers of dark yellow and khaki was filtered over the camo to bring down the harshness. After a coat of Futures, the decals were applied and a lot of coaxing is required to negate the thick nature of the decals. After that another layer of filter was applied at the decalled areas to blend them in. Turpentine/oil paint wash was then applied after another coat of Futures. The burnt umber and lamp black mix was used for recesses while raw umber was used to simulate scratch and rust marks. The rust and scratch marks were applied wet and at different stages of the drying process, a flat brush was used to streak fown the tail off effect. Some practice and a steady hand is needed.
This project took 2 weekends to complete the construction and a further 2 to bring it up to the completion level of the above images. The images following below are after the pigment dusting and flat coat.
A comparison of the recently released premium kit of the 250/1 NEU is planned at a later stage. Regardless of the upgrade, this is still a very well commended kit to build.