This is a step by step build log for Dragon's DAK Pz1 Ausf B
In the heels of the review, this is an outline of the build step by step following the instruction sheet.
Step 1: After cleanup of the wheels with a sanding sponge, they were stressed with a knife to indicate wear and tear. Do note that the external facing side of the wheel has indentations. As the tree connecting part of the wheel arms are rather thick, a bit of cleanup is required. I left the wheels in free spinning mode by not gluing them to the arm so that the painting later is easier.
Step 2: The additional bar here is optional. Do remember to drill the holes on parts A9 and A12!
Step 3 and 4: Note that part C4 is now a combination of Part C4 and C14 if you have bought a later release. Except for the top rollers and part C10 connecting the wheel arms, I left all the parts unglued at this stage to ease painting later. Cleanup of part A16 is required to have a clean spring. Wheel C3 is again stresssed. I skipped Step 5 which detailed the track construction as I prefer to leave this before the hull parts are attached. Do align the top rollers as they do not fit snugly in to the arms. You may also opt to leave out parts C12 as the wheels will not be movable after the bar C10 is fixed.
Step 6:The main hull construction is unconventional with the hull plates glued onto a base shape. Despite some sanding and hoaxing, I did not manage to get all the weld join areas to match. This however is easy to fix witha bit of dilluted putty at a later stage. I also left the vision port covers unattached to ease the painting process so that the clear blocks are not sprayed over.
Step 7: 3 options are available for the rear plates and I chose the one with the smoke candles. The exhaust cover is left uncompleted so taht the exhaust can be painted. A bit of care here is also needed as the diagram does not indicated the holding bolt seen on part MA1 ( exhaust cover ) This will be detailed later. Be careful cutting part A18. I left a pit cutting too close to the part.
Step 8: Straighforward engine cover parts except a bit of trimming is required for the grille (MA9) as it will not fit. A bit of care is also needed to fit the covers ( part E5 and 6) so that the spacing is even. Some light sanding may be required.
Step 10: After skipping Step 9, as I prefer to get all the subassemblies done first, the turret was next. The gun cradle cannot be made to move so you can glue them all in place. Do align the barrels true, level and parallel. I will need to drill the barrels out later for extra details as this kit does not use slide mould technology. The pistol ports are left undone to ease painting.
The comparison pictures with an Alan Model kit of yesteryears concludes part 1. The construction will be completed in the 2nd part.